Showing posts with label churches. Show all posts
Showing posts with label churches. Show all posts

6.11.2014

See no Evil in Sevilla

Sevilla (English translation: Seville) is the capital of the Andalusian region of Spain. For perfect weather, try October!

Giralda: mostly minaret, barely belltower.

Like Granada, Sevilla has strong Moorish influences, but it is balanced by more obvious Christian influences as well. 

It's not news that the Reconquista happened. I knew about it. I was prepared for the churches. Sevilla happens to have churches.

A cathedral, actually. 

It has a cathedral. A big one. The Catedral de Santa Maria de la Sede is literally the largest cathedral in the world. In the world! This is known.

Big Catholic Influence.
But little did I know, before I even reached the hostel, that the Virgin Mary herself would appear before me.  
I would guess the crowd knew she was coming.

It was an overwhelming moment: bells clanging, cell phones raised in a traditional gesture of piety, a march of very slow flag-bearers. And then the Virgin Mary herself came out of the church on a dais of candles. (Unfortunate side-effect of that canopy: the poles holding it up look vaguely like really fancy prison bars.) I admired the crowd and unexpected spectacle as statue-Maria demonstrated her ability to build mystery and anticipation, and make a grand entrance. 

Church pomp: waxing elegant

Fortunately, there's more to Sevilla than strong Catholic tradition. Not fifty feet away from the Sevilla Cathedral is the Alcázar, a complex of Moorish and Spanish heritage. The Moors ruled for five centuries, and that leaves an impression on a city. The Alcázar was originally a fort, but transitioned into a palace through significant remodeling over the last five hundred years. It is the oldest royal palace in Europe still in use today, according to respectable sources like Wikipedia.

And it's a magical to spend an afternoon wandering with pleasant company. It's got everything:

Arches with colorful Islamic designs!

Even the arches have arches!

Arches with scallops!

The Courtyard of the Maidens, named after a legend of the Moorish king's
 demand of 100 virgins yearly from Christian kingdoms in Iberia.
Not entirely sure that legend is accurate...

Arches that look a face wearing helmets!

Dot the eyes?

Gardens with tropical trees!

And walls. Gotta keep the poor out somehow.

Rainwater tanks named after some king's mistress!

A place for quiet reflection.

And an absurdly tiny statue of Mercury!

Small cast system.
The Mercury rises on hot Spanish days.

But if you don't want any ancient history, there are also some more recent additions to Sevilla (like, within the last hundred years) such as the Plaza de España. 

There is something alien and beautiful about the place.

The whole area is a Moorish inspired blend of architectural styles from 1929 when it was built for a world's fair.

Bridging the gaps between cultures.

All of which you may have seen before in those Star Wars prequel movies we all like to pretend don't exist.

Just picture Natalie Portman
and some guy whining about being evil.

Spain. *sigh* It's the kind of paradise where you stop believing there are emotional states other than happy. Go to there! Feed your eyes with art and architecture. Bask in the perfect weather. And don't get trampled by the Virgin Mary.

5.30.2014

Montpellier: Unicorns, spiderweb church, and floating dresses

Montpellier is the third largest city on the Mediterranean coast, which is to say, smaller than Nice (just as nice, though), and certainly smaller than Marsailles (which everyone in Paris will warn you is the crime capital of France).  But what does size matter? It's charming.

Oh, you see balconies? In Montpellier, balconies see you.
I spent an day exploring Montpellier, after my host friend had given me a map with her favorite parts circled. The city has enough going on, yet the center is navigable enough, that it is well suited to a scavenger hunt. I highly recommend it.

Here's the best parts of my scavenger hunt: 

1. A Church Converted to Modern Art!

I like churches as well as the next agnostic traveler with a love of architecture and shiny things. But sometimes I wish there were secular spaces with sweeping vaulted ceilings and an air of transcendence without the baggage of organized religion.

And lo! There are churches that convert. In Britain, some have been turned into bars. In Montpellier, Eglise Sainte Anne has been turned into a modern art gallery, Carré Sainte Anne. When I was there it was an installation called "After the Dream" by Chiharu Shiota.

postmodern ghosts and constructed spiderweb.

It was pretty surreal exhibit to walk through a space so occupied to webs of thin black threads that it was like a fog and eclipsed the stained glass and columns in favor white dresses flooded with light.

A postmodern commentary on the archaic nature of marriage and tradition
expressed as a dream of humanity, with the the supercutaneous flesh that is the air,
filled with fibres and the membranes of dreams. 


2. Creepy Child Riding an Unhappy Lion!

The Promenade du Peyrou is a lovely area where you can look at a guy on a horse and an octagonal building called Chateau d'Eau (eww). There is a nice overlook of the acqueducts. But more importantly, there is a creepy childmonster riding a lion that is not digging it.

Raw feeling in those lion eyes.
And fortunately, all that is right by the:

3. Arch of Miniature Triumphs!

Don't have time to drive around L'Arc de Triomphe in Paris? Save time and visit the miniature one in Montpellier! Note the scale against those shadowy people. It's the cute tiny version. Except this one is called Porte du Peyrou which was completed in 1693, so it's not actually ripping off Paris. Just the Romans.

Not to be arch, but I don't see the point of these structures.

4. Thing that I think is the back of a cathedral!

Wander around the old medieval looking part of the town and everything is completely different and old and medieval looking. This is a thing that looks old and medieval looking.

Monastery? Cathedral? Thing?

5. A Comedie of Errors!

A big focal point of the city is the Place de la Comédie, which is a big square with two things in it:

The Opéra Comédie
Comedically lit up at night.

And the Three Graces.
#nofilter #nomakeup #noshirt

6. Creepy Child Riding Unicorns

Let's be real, here. I saw a lot of Europe. But I didn't see enough unicorns. Unicorns are awesome. So Montpellier gets some major props for Fontaine aux licornes.

but it looks like they're doing it wrong.